Want to know what happens in a Puma factory in China when managers have been covering up the amount of overtime workers have been doing? Or what happens in a Vietnamese Adidas factory where workers’ mistakes are made public and announced on loudspeakers?
It's all in the Fair Labor Association's tracking charts which can be searched by company, licensee or global region, written by independent FLA accredited monitors.
One of the more woeful lists of conduct code violations came from a factory in India which makes and dyes Nike t-shirts and sweaters:
- management coached workers not to reveal to inspectors that they'd worked on their rest days,
some new workers didn't know how much they were being paid and didn't know the contents of documents they'd signed when starting,
- workers with union affiliation were never hired,
- fabric was stored in what, by law, should have been a functional ambulance room,
in one of many health and safety breaches, loose electric wires were seen on the wet floor of the dye house,
All in all, monitors found 1,603 code breaches in the 88 factories in the FLA 2005 annual report. Health and safety concerns were the biggest problem area overall, making up 44% of all code breaches found. There were regional trends: South Asia - India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka - had the worst health & safety record; South East Asia - Thailand, Indonesia and Vietnam - trailed the pack in requiring workers to work very long hours, and both South East Asia and East Asia - China, Macau, Hong Kong and Korea - did badly on "freedom of association" (unsurprisingly, given trade unions are illegal in China).
With labor conditions of increasing interest to consumers and authorities, this shows that it pays to have someone check out the factories you're using (or considering using) in Asia and elsewhere, to ensure they're as "sweat-free" as possible. (Unfortunately for those looking to avoid dodgy factories, it is the FLA's policy not to publish the names of the individual factories they monitor).
But the Fair Labor Association has not been without its fair share of controversy. After all, when six apparel industry representatives sit on your board of directors, someone's going to say you're too cozy with your companies to be truly independent. Could "happywashing" be to the fair labor movement what "greenwashing" is to the environmental lobby?
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